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BASE PRINCIPLES OF LEKO
The automation of designers' work allows to improve the development of new designs,
reduce routine operations and improve fitting that is necessary for modern sewing CADs.
LEKO is the first CAD to design apparel patterns from scratch. LEKO is the only currently existing system that automates the very design and pattern making processes. The result of designer's work is digitized set of patterns that may be plotted, printed or transferred into other CADs for future marker making and cutting - LEKO integrates nearly all CADs.
Our main goal is to automate the routine pattern
making as fully as possible, to enable our users (designers) to re-use their
experience. LEKO is based on formalized text
presentation of method (algorithm, program) of pattern making, written in
special language of geometrical construction's description (program
language).
This allows us to find new solutions for many problems of sewing manufacturers,
such as:
- experience gaining and training;
- automation of calculations and patterns set making;
- fully automated pattern grading;
- parameterization of series of models;
- standardization of designing and description methods;
- database of models;
- pattern exchange and selling at algorithm level;
- model developing at description level;
- more rapid developing of new models.
We would like to focus at several points:
experience gaining and training
Experience gaining, exchange and use are extremely important for sewing
industry. Methods of gaining of experience existed before allowed to
effectively gain only individual experience; modelers could only exchange
their knowledge via books, articles and methods. It was rather time-consuming,
and, what is more, books and articles are the passive form of knowledge
gaining. Comparatively, algorithms, written as programs, allow to control
the way of creation as well as to make and change the pattern, are more active
form of experience gaining. Verbal description can result in evasive and
multivalued expressions; the program admits the single explanation only;
moreover, to estimate whether the programs works correctly or not will take
two or three seconds only (period of patterns making).
Besides, there is a psychological moment. A developer who writes a text, as
a usual, check its correctness additionally and sometimes it changes the
developer's point of view on the matter. That is why algorithm text writing
can become an additional self-control. Besides, the text of
program guarantees from mistakes and laxities, which are usual in
descriptions of manual pattern making. Any program laxity always results in
syntax mistake or visible changes of pattern.
Program-based training will allow you not only to control the designing
process, but also independently change process and see corresponding changes
of patterns.
automation of counting and making the set of patters
One of the most important moments of designer's work is counting; it is
especially necessary in pattern developing based on typical measures.
"Manual" pattern making used simple counting methods, and this simplicity was
sometimes groundless. Precise counting which uses trigonometry and planimetry,
will you to choose initial data for design developing (measurements and
methods) and coefficients being used in the process of pattern making. But, up
to nowadays, counting methods were not directly connected with physical
pattern set making (in the process of manual developing, this or that part of
work is usually rather approximate). It affects counting methods of
pattern making. Methods oriented on the manual pattern making, parameters of
pattern are being connected on the base of already selected coefficients, that
handicaps modifying of the patterns.
LEKO replaces tailor's ruler and dividers with lines and arcs, which are
completed with central and axis symmetry, parallel transfer and point-centered
revolve as well as with fruitful work with angular values which guarantee
angular conjunction. Calculation under formulas, splines, work with angular
values, geometric transformations provide the modeler with fresh solutions in
pattern making.
automation grading
Pattern making facilitates pattern grading by means of algorithms considerably ; it allows make patterns for all sizes/heights. You need not to input
direction of points' layout changes if you change size/height (gradient),
because these changes are formed by the system and defined by designing
algorithm and measurements.
With LEKO, you will be able to count and make a pattern for base size/height
and create an exact matrix of rules of main constructive points grading in
accordance with enlargements of size and height given.
parameterization of series of models;
If you write your algorithm as a program, you will have the possibility of
parameterization of development of patterns set. This means that you need not
to strictly define sizes of parts and placement of dividing lines; you can
work taking into account the fact that all these sizes are changeable (within
certain limits) and input these parameters according to the characteristics of
the model. For instance you can input different parameters of fitting, decrease the coquette height etc. basing on fabric's width and physical characteristics.
standardization of designing and description methods
With LEKO, you can standardize methods of designing on the base of
sewing production, equipment and technology of every particular manufacturer.
For instance, the manufacture of men suit, which has special equipment, can
claim for specific data of particular operations via coefficients, seam/hem
allowances and changes.
database of models
Saving models as algorithms gives you the possibility to make necessary
pattern or to copy design elements of this pattern to create a new model. You
may save pattern on floppy/hard disks; if latter, it takes minimum space
and is always available. You may print algorithm and make a leaflet. Use these
leaflets to create new models, bring necessary changes into already
existing designs and add these designs with new elements.
exchange and selling of patterns at algorithm level
Exchange and selling of patterns at algorithm level facilitates the process of
exchanging the patterns ad refresh the interest of the buyer. Commercial
development of algorithms of designing in form of a program is also
possible.
developing of a model at description level
Powerful computing base of the system allows to develop the fitting of a model
at algorithm description level. Approximation formulas can be now replaced
with more precious ones, and recording the algorithm can be simplified by
using of precious formulas.
When you create a model manually, you have to additionally check how certain
parts adjust. With LEKO, you need not to do it, because conjunction exists in
the system at algorithm level. During the designing process you can input and
exactly consider fitting coefficients, seam/hem allowances, and adjust
straight-line and curve-line portions lengths. Trigonometry and planimetry
allows to adjust the layout of points and lines at space.
hastening of new modes development
Automation of calculating and design process considerable hastens models
creating. Typical designs and transformations give the user the possibility to
"combine" the model, selecting already existing elements and bringing
particular changes to combine them into the whole model.
LEKO allows to reduce time consumes. Working with currently existing methods, a
modeler makes a pattern (using the base of similar modes), adds model
features, faces patterns (checks angle conjunctions, lengths adjustments,
technological requirements etc.), and then follows it with technical grading.
With LEKO, the modeler just input the conjunctions of angles and lengths at
designing level; there is no need for him/her to check the correlations. The
system itself, with any measurement and allowances, provides you with correct
correlations of segments. After developing the main pattern segments, the
modeler chooses seam/hem allowances (printing and drawing all or any
particular patterns), divides lines to get required pattern appearance. The
grading is automated and not time-consuming.
Considering the designing and pattern making algorithms as a computer program
allows to bring the massive experience of software development to apparel
designing. There are many methods of hastening of software developing, quality
improvement, facing collective work arrangement, documentation, alienation of
developer, standardization of methods of development etc. We would like to
focus at some of them in connection with apparel design.
self-documenting
Completely written program, as usual, does not require additional
explanations. This clearness becomes possible due to effective sequence of
operations, clear definitions and detailed comments. The basement of these
operations may be documented additionally. For instance, if the program
calculates the fabric fitting coefficient and bases a design on it, the method
of coefficient using does not claim for additional comments; initial data for
this calculations (article, method, book etc.) can be given in reference,
before formula.
collective development of models
Text form of algorithm writing allows collective development of models and
gathers them at algorithm level (coordinating the parameters of gathering).
Writing an algorithm using special discipline gives you a possibility to
effectively develop model details with your colleagues and then join there
details at algorithm level, corresponding parameters of joining. Especially
helpful for group work is a special discipline which includes unification of
definitions and methods of designing, the rules of making and use of objects etc.
alienation of developer
Developed and worked out designing algorithms becomes alienated of developer.
Any modeler who uses these algorithms is able to make a pattern and change
parameters. It will help your enterprise to bear temporal absence of the
specialist (for example, illness) - even if there were no special trainings.
Next >>>
For more information, please, contact
us: leko@lekala.info
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