2.5D METHOD: new approaches to apparel design

By Yelena Volkova

2D design by means of computational/proportional method, 2D designing based on ready models and mock-up method are mostly wide spread in our days apparel designing. Computational/proportional method, as well as 2D designing can be very helpful in designers work.

Developing new designs via computer allows the designer not only repeat his or her manual actions on computer, but also to use new possibilities that gives the computer. New tools allow bringing into life absolutely new methods- for example, design parameterization, piece linear functions, wraparound construction. Among new methods is 2.5 designing (2.5D).

Having full measurement database (State Standard) in your computer, one can easily create a 3D mannequin. It is possible because State Standards include a lot of heights, diameters and depths. You can take main constructive lines from this mannequin and use these measures in 2D designing. Auxiliary lines can be drawn both on the mannequin and with light "air clearance". Such a function as "Fill" allows you to get image of the model you are creating (due to "pulling" of filling "fabric" on the "frame" that consist constructive lines). After changing measurement table all 2D and 3D constructions are reconstructed according to new data, and as a result the designer gets new 3D mannequin with base lines and new set of reconstructed 2D patterns.

This method cannot be called "3D method" because it uses for 2D designing linear values only. But it is more than 2D method, because it uses plane lines and allows plane visualization of these lines and screening the garment, that, consequently, allows the designer to see results of his or her work.

One of advantages of this method is step-by-step changes from 2D designing to 3D one. The designer can change this or that constructive node, add proportions got from 3D model or use them for additional control on 2D design.

The above described method is actively used in "Vladimir Netchaev's Atelier", and it is suggested that in the nearest future it will be combined with the method of tacking measures according to digital photography. The system of taking measures allows you to enter new measurements as well as coefficients that can correspond constructive features of the ferment under development, for instance, shoulder seam place, lapel line etc.

The system was performed on the base of LEKO 8.0 system with 3D designing function and using computers P-4 (2400) without powerful accelerators of 3D graphics. To print patterns, the printer of A3 format was used.

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