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LEKO. Atelier of XXI century.
LEKO of 6.87 version is called "CAD for atelier". It is available for many
ateliers due to its price, but - what is more - it allows creating patterns
according to individual measures.
To create apparel, that fits, for a concrete person, exact measuring is
necessary. The tailor should take 10-25 measures with a tape. Traditionally we
measure girths and lengths lengthwise the human body. The information on their
distribution (transverse and front-back diameters) and their mutual
disposition (for example, depth of waist) are not used, as well as
shoulder slope angles, bust and spine lines.
Incompleteness of information on the figure results in time-consuming fitting
it up the customer's figure. It substantially slows the process of sewing,
because the clothing is to be tacked (with allowances) before every fitting.
Additional fittings not only bore the customer, but also complicate the
process of sewing. Sewing without additional fittings substantially simplifies
the process, does not claims for customer's presence, allows minimal seam/hem
allowances without providing the fitting, that will save the fabric.
Results then are committed to the average, and a typical figure is created. To
take individual measurements, special tools (measuring waist coat) or
universal anthropometrical tools. Automated measuring by means of
anthropometrical tools, using several cameras, laser sensors, does still not
achieve necessary for solving of designers' tasks level and, moreover, the
cost of these tools ($10 000 and above) limits their use. Working with not
automatic, but automated system, that uses human experience and knowledge and
helps to define additional measurements, allows substantively decrease the
cost of the system and increase the speed and reliability of data processing.
Radical decrease of digital cameras' cost ($140 and above),
increase of the quality of taking pictures with web-camera allows quick and
cheap input to computer the image of a body. Picturing of for sides takes
20-30 seconds, then additional processing of photographs within 3 minutes,
and rather qualitative image is computerized. Additional advantage of this
method is its touchless. During manual measuring a person, when touched,
can intentionally or unintentionally becomes straight, pull in a belly.
Pictures may be taken when the bearing is natural.
But input of body image into computer does not solve the problem of measuring.
All of us know that it is rather difficult to define linear dimensions or even
scale basing on the picture. Every optic system has its set of distortion
resulted from inexactness of lenses producing and distribution in group,
layout of a film or digital camera matrix, prospect distortion, distortions
connected with changing or inexactness of place of photographing definition
etc. Each of these factors results in the distortion of the general scale and
brings regular or irregular distortions into the image. If you want to get
computerized measurements, you should use the certain scheme of measuring on
the base of digital photography. Main conditions of getting precious measures
are: the same conditions of taking pictures, the same place of a person
during taking pictures and the same method of data processing.
Our new program, LEKO-F, was developed to define additional measurements
on the base of digital photographs. It allows saving photographs of
customers, calculating the conditionally-type measurements, visually amplifying
individual measures and compensationof camera optic and prospective distortions. An important advantage of the system is its openness. It means that
you can independently widen the list of measurements, develop
method of their counting and the method of virtual mannequin creation.
But to get the computerized additional measurers is only half of the business.
Touchless sewing is still a dream because of traditional drafting methods
and measuring. To approach to touchless sewing, you need not only additional
information on the figure of a person. You also should correctly use this
information in construction method. New methods can be developed only with the
use of new tools of measuring.
Developing of new construction methods that uses additional measurements is
a research task, but these researches will be compensated with increase of
speed a quality of service. LEKO and new program of measuring, LEKO-F
enables you to re-arrange you atelier's work. For example, creating the first
sample will take you 15 minutes only. If you plot it on vlieseline, you can
correct the computer design after the fitting and due to this get already
checked patterns, ready for sewing the apparel. Using possibility of
vlieseline plotting, you can reduce the first fitting to 10-15 minutes and
receive the customer's agreement for the concrete model
and its model features (allowances, relieves, decorative stitches etc.)
For more information, demo versions of the programs, samples of patterns,
catalogues of models
you can get at www.lekala.info or by tel. +7 (095) 240-7122, 249-0101.
For more information, please, contact us: leko@lekala.info
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